In September and October 1988 I chose for my adventure the exciting destination of Papua New Guinea. First I visited the Highlands and West Sepik with the rugged terrain of the Star Mountains rising over 4000 metres. Secondly I walked over a hundred kilometres from Vanimo to Sissano in West Sepik region, in a remote area of the north coast. The last part of this trip was a journey from Wewak to Maprik in the Sepik River region. This unique experience to see and learn about some unique part of this country was only possible through the invitation of my long-time Polish friend, an anthropologist, Maria Wronska-Friend and her husband Tony. They lived in PNG for several years and have a great knowledge of the country and have many friends there.

On the way to Telefomin, where Maria and Tony lived, I stopped in Tari in Southern Highlands where literally I had the feeling of fast transition back to the previous centuries of civilisation. Unexpectedly, being completely on my own, I met a few large groups of the Huli tribal people, most of whom wore traditional dress, had body decoration and carried some weapons. Many of the men wore wigs, usually triangular or semi-circular in shape and made from human hair. I was too scared to use my camera but still managed to make a small record of this sudden encounter.

While I stayed in Telefomin in West Sepik I walked to some nearby villages, bushland with beautiful orchids and mountains with some caves. Together with Maria and Tony I flew to the Mianmin area at a lower elevation, where Tony held official meeting with the local community. In the evening there was a special performance of dances by men wearing traditional feathers and colourful headdresses. The sound of kundu drums delighted us. At this village I also watched a big food distribution around a mumu pit - a way of preparing steamed food. Over hot stones, water was poured, then the layers of leaves and parts of pig were placed. On the next layer of leaves the vegetable were laid: taro, sweet potatoes, then pandanus and green edible leaves.

The biggest adventure was a two-week backpack walk with Maria and her Canadian friend, Jenny. Our start was in Vanimo town then Ningera, Onei, Serra, Warapu, Arop to Sissano, all in West Sepik. We crossed many small tracks in the dark jungle often overgrown by the huge buttressed trees, and lavishly green foothills. The villages where we stayed overnight were located at the coastal plains and beaches. Several rivers on the walking tracks were infested with crocodiles. We crossed them with the help of local people and their dugout canoes.

Often we created a great sensation within the community. In all villages we were privileged to stay in the guest houses. In one village the guest house was without walls limiting our privacy. For a few days and nights most local people observed us with great interest and friendliness. The last villages and settlements were placed near the water; rivers, channels, lagoon or ocean. The local tribes developed very rich carving tradition of the boats and oars. It was a favourite research region for Maria's anthropological studies. I could not resist buying from those villages a few carved and beautifully painted oars to bring back to Australia.

The last part of my PNG visit took me from Wewak to Maprik in East Sepik. I was amazed to see many villages around the Sepik River with very different culture. My biggest interest focused at the traditional men's cult houses constructed with a boat shaped roof.

The Papua New Guinea trip was an incredible and memorable journey. Most of the indigenous islanders were friendly and respectful. Many of them knew Maria and Tony and accepted them as their own people and me as their friend.