Gipsy Lifetime - Letters (English) |
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Gipsy Lifetime 1 (March 2002) Current Letters
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Dear Friends, Today I started my Gypsy Life - a new way of life, with this motto: On 2 March 2002 I started my solo almost year-long African backpacking adventure. The first stop is Madagascar, where I will stay for two months. On 4 May 2002 I will land in Cape Town, South Africa, and start my five-month overland trip to Egypt. In October 2002 I will fly from Cairo (Egypt) to Accra (Ghana), West Africa, to continue for the next four months an overland trip to Morocco. In February 2003 I plan to land in Europe and stay there for an indefinite period of time. In Africa my intention is to visit as many countries as possible. I am very much looking forward to re-awakening my sense of adventure, and the intensity and enrichment that travel brings to my life. I love to continue learning, exploring my curiosity about people of different cultural and social backgrounds, and seeing everyday life from a new perspective. Trip itinerary: http://www.basia.meder.net/africa/africa_itinerary.htm I feel excited and I do have some apprehension but I am now on my way
to Madagascar where the first Servas host will meet me at the airport.
I feel lucky to count you all as friends who have shaped my life, who
I am happy to share my adventure with and who I look forward to hearing
from. May your dreams also come true. Top
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Dear Fiends, On 2 March 2002 I was to start my journey in Madagascar but the reality changed my plan a bit. My flights to Antananarivo were cancelled twice and I was forced to stay in Johanesburg for 6 days. First 2 nights I stayed in hotel and then for 3 nights I stayed in private house, Servas members, Christine and Alistair. It was not to bad as I literally was exorcised, very tired physically and emotionally. So eventually I did have some time to recover, rest and have some reflections of my last few weeks in Australia before my departure. I did also have a chance to test a bit of Africa and became already fascinated and looking forward to my Africa journey in the next part of the year. Well, first I would like to go back to the time in Australia. As most of you know, I left Canberra leaving my house completely empty and very quickly was rented (by agent) by elderly couple. Their rent will pay my mortgaged and all house expenses when I am away. I gave away or sold a few things, all my belongings, except many boxes of books and photographs. I have got a great feeling of FREEDOM. Before I left I work very hard, often 20 hours per day. I am very grateful to Chris, my son, who did help me so much. I am also grateful to Chris R. and John M. who did help me with my house painting. There are many more friends who help me. Joanna K. - with transport for my furniture, Wojtek K.- with internet and my website, Magda W. - help with taking care of all my mail, bank and other issues, Joe B. - to take care about my emergency issues as a Power of Attorney, Paul C. - support and care about my finance and tax issues, Anna W.(doughtier)-editing my English letters for website, Jo F. - giving me privilege to be on her book launch before my departure, Sandra H.- storing all my boxes with photographs, film and albums, Ewa K.-storing all my reminding boxes with books and personal treasures, Malgosia K. and Grazyna S.- sending my personal things to Poland (for next year). All of you I am sending a big THANK YOU. There are many more special friends that I am very grateful for all help and moral support, especially Anna W. (Mum). I can't name all of you but you are in my heart forever. It was hard to see Chris's marriage life finally collapsed and to see his struggle. I know that he will take care of the children because he loves them a lot. Now, Chris is re-building his life from screach, especially re-building his Internet network support business. Maybe you need some technical help? I am sure you will receive a good and friendly service and also support Chris. His contact is on the end of this letter. I am keeping in my memory all smiling faces of all friends from my last garden farewell party in February and many other meetings. Many of you also support to realise my other dream - the balloon flight. Yes, a week before my departure from Canberra, on 23 February, I did have my balloon adventure over Canberra. I updated my website with some photos from this flight as well as I have more family photos. Many thanks to ALL. Eventually, on 7 March 2002, I landed in Madagascar. As many of you know, this country is going throughout many political problems and from my landing it was very hard experience for me. But everything is ok now. I managed to travel south to Fianarantsou, I have seen and expierience a lot already but more about it you can read in my next letter.
Cheers and have a peaceful life, BasiaTop
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| Gipsy Lifetime 3 (16 March 2002) |
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Dear Friends, On 7 March 2002 I landed in Antananarivo, Madagascar: the first destination of a year-long trip. The evening was growing dark, it was raining, the bank was closed - no money exchange. My Servas friend, Patricia, couldn't meet me because all the petrol stations were closed… I managed to call her and she organised a hotel for one night with money to pay the taxi fare (very expensive). For the next three days I stayed with her and then managed to change more money (only a limited number of travellers' cheques). With this, I left for the south. First of all, I was struck by the huge level of poverty. Travelling by small taxi-buses, I become aware of the beauty of this country. The highlands are very green; there are thousands of rice fields with terraces everywhere. I have been lucky to visit several villages, meet some nice local people, stay in basic hotels, sample a bit of local food and eventually recover from the initial problems. Yesterday I arrived in Fianarantsou, a city situated among many hills. I organised my hotel, my French lessons and am planning to stay here for about two weeks. I have also organised my money, despite the fact that all the banks are closed and should be closed for another few weeks. I have met wonderful local people. The highlight was yesterday's meeting with a great international, Malagasy photographer, Pierrot Man. I looked through his inspirational b/w photos and this meeting has already made my trip very worthwhile. Have a look at his web site: www.tamarin.com All is OK. I could have many good experiences and happily learn some French and some Malagasy as well. Unfortunately, it looks like it won't possible for Sandra to join me as we had planned. The current problem can take a long time to resolve. Following the elections last December, the former president did not accept the result and the new president. Because of this, the country is now having a very hard time. I, along with everyone else, am hoping for a peaceful solution. However, based on the history of this country, this could take ? months but should not stop me from travelling and keeping safe. Sandra, I will be staying in Fianarantsou for the next two weeks, at the Tsara Guest House, ph: 75 50206, fax: 75 51209 Cheers, Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 4 (25 April 2002) |
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Dear Friends, Madagascar, an island-country, just the name of which to many sounds exotic, has been the beginning of my year-long African journey. The first months of my trip were full of contacts, experiences and adventures. From my very intensive way of life in Australia I rapidly moved into the very basic and modest Malagasy lifestyle. I also became witness to important political and historical events. However, this created many complications during my trip. Unfortunately Sandra, my friend from Canberra, couldn't join me in Madagascar as we had planned, for this very reason, so I continued my trip alone. From my first days in Madagascar I felt my isolation, as I was the only tourist ("vazaha- "white skin"), contrasting with the local dark skin. Despite this I felt good, especially thanks to the delightful smiles of the Malagasy people by which I was surrounded every day. Their lives are very basic, mostly just to survive, often with struggle. Eighty percent of the Malagasy people I met in the highlands walked barefoot and wore minimal old clothes. Most men wear shorts, a shirt and a simple type of material wrapped around their shoulders. Women wear dresses or skirts with sarongs around their waists. Over their very black hair, Malagasy people usually wear hats, straw hats in different shapes, depending on the region. The women also wear their hair in several stringy plaits. In the highland villages I visited, people live in simple tall and narrow red mud-brick houses, which always face West. Small pane-less windows have only wooden shutters. The interiors are mostly very basic, with no electricity and just a fireplace for cooking. The nearby creek or river forms the bathroom and laundry. Houses are usually built in clusters, creating creamy-reddish spots in the lush green landscape of rice fields, corn, cassava and other plants beautifully terracing the surrounding hills. Not much has changed in Madagascar's highland way of life for many centuries. Farming tools are simple and farming methods are basic and manual. In contrast, urban life has created extensive poverty, and homelessness that always upsets me, making me feel hopelessly sad. During my first few days in Madagascar I stayed in Antanarivo, the capital, paralysed by the long-since difficult situation. Following last December's election, the former president did not accept the result and ignored the new president supported by the majority of the people. This brought about strikes, military action, roadblocks and no petrol supply. I was lucky to be the guest of Servas members. I soon managed to exchange money and instantly become a millionaire in Malagasy franks! I left the capital and headed South. I managed to pass through many road barricades and the drivers somehow obtained petrol illegally. Passing through peaceful highland villages, I became more optimistic about continuing my travels. For the first time in my life I walked narrow tracks between rice paddies. I observed the work on farm fields and the surrounding nature. The mountain climate, at over 1000 m, was warm and often tropical and with cooler nights. In March, the highlands were very green, as the wet season was just finishing. I spent my second week in Fianarantsoa (Fianar), a southern university city. I found a French language teacher and studied every day for hours. This is a completely new language to me and it's not easy, especially with the intensity I kept up. Unfortunately, the following week in Fianar became politically stormy and very tense. I couldn't concentrate on my French study any more despite my best efforts. Eventually, one afternoon, guns were used against strikers and the public. Three people were killed just a few hundred metres from my hotel. Later, the loss was greater. Shootings, fires, barricades, the military and crowds were just around the corner from me. Finally, I became nervous and moved to another hotel in a safer suburb. Despite the situation, I was able to enjoy Malagasy food and seasonal fruit every day. Most Malagasy people eat rice three times a day. I managed to buy some bread for breakfast and lunch and enjoyed fruit, especially pokaneli - custard apple, avocado, bananas and oranges. On Sundays in Fianar I went to the Catholic cathedral and experienced other local customs, especially with the celebration of the upcoming Easter. It was always a joyful time; I was the only white person among hundreds or thousand of locals. All the hymns had happy, fast rhythms and strong voices filled the church. Almost from the beginning of my stay in Fianar, I spent a lot of time with my new friends, two young students - Haja and Ken. Nearly every day we walked the surrounding hills exercising their English and my French. Ken also introduced me to his poetry, mostly romantic, reflective and sad, which he translated into English. Haja invited me to his family's modest house in the city and introduced me to his parents and several family members. I spent Easter with a group of 15 young singers with five guitars. We went to a neighbouring village where we stayed overnight. For 24 hours the sound of joyful, happy or reflective music was everywhere. I will never forget those moments filled with simplicity, joy and warmth. They really touched me. One of the nicest and most unforgettable experiences I had was at Ken's family's village, where we stayed for a week. Despite many barricades on the roads, we managed to travel 40 km outside of Fianar. It took us almost an entire day, about 10 hours - such an exercise of patience! But when we finally reached the village on foot (the last hour only), I felt like I was in paradise! In a vast valley, at the foot of steep granite hills, was a small village. Ken's close family and relatives occupied several traditional red mud-brick houses. The valley was surrounded by green terraces in many shades; fields of rice, corn, cassava, peanuts or other plants. Mountain streams had been divided by man into several smaller streams to irrigate all the rice paddies. I also enjoyed tremendously my local discovery, wild guava (like a small apple) - sweet and tasty. Yummy!At Ken's family's village I slept in a "Gipsy hat" - a small shed in a grassy field, together with several young boys. I ate rice three times a day and tasted many Malagasy specialities. My experience in participating in some village work was a great joy. I got to beat ready and dry rice plant straws on rocks collected a few days before from the fields. The rice seeds fell to the ground like rain, accompanied by the joyful and loud shouts of the people working together. As of this day rice has a new taste and a new meaning for me. I became a part of this village's life. Additionally, I spent some "playtime" every day with a group of several children, constantly smiling and laughing. I know that my visit affected their life, but they really affected and touched my life too. I will keep in contact with them. Visiting this village has given me another unique experience. Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 6 (10 May2002) |
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Dear Friends, I bid farewell to Madagascar on 3 May 2002, after travelling there for two months with many interesting and challenging adventures. That same day I landed in Cape Town, South Africa. From here I will start my five-month overland journey North to Cairo, Egypt. I should be there in September, if my plans don't change. I'm going to be in Cape Town until around 15 May. I'm staying at a private house (Servas) with my own room. After my experiences in Madagascar, this is a great leap back to the 21st century (temporary only). I am developing photos, updating notes and correspondence and preparing myself for the next chapter of my adventure in this part of Africa. Cape Town is a very beautiful and modern city situated on the coast, surrounded by several mountains. Here I feel like I'm in Sydney. It's a bit chilly; winter is coming (temps around 20 degrees). Generally I feel great. I am very happy with my adventure in Madagascar and I look forward to continuing my gypsy lifestyle. Thanks for all the letters. I will write more next week, Internet access is much easier here! Regards, hugs and kisses, Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 7 (6 June 2002) |
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Dear friends, I'm sending you part 2 of the shortened account of my time in Madagascar. Are you still sure you would like to receive my letters? It is my joy to share my other life with you and I eagerly await your news. Still, there may be some who have had enough of my ramblings. Maybe then only those who do not want to receive my mail any more reply to this message. Lots of love, Basia Madagascar II April 2002 - the second month of my stay in Madagascar was full of diverse experiences exploring the many interesting corners of this country. Travel and communication here is very difficult, and combined with the crippling political situation at the moment it has become worse and more uncertain. Nonetheless I decided to leave Fianarantsoa, because in my opinion it was safer to do so than stay in the city, in which you could feel a tension as though you were sitting on a ticking bomb. For the first part of my journey I caught a train (I think the only one in the country) to the east coast. I left Fianarantsoa early in the morning. The train was a locomotive with four carriages. The journey was supposed to cover about 150km and take approximately 9 hours. It leads through mountains with heights of 1100m, then tropical rainforests, waterfalls, streams, small villages, right up to the sandy warm shores of the Indian Ocean. For most villages this is the only connection with the world, there are no other roads. The train reached only as far as Tolongoina, 62kms away (4 hours). Unfortunately the railway tracks were damaged and I had to walk the last 5kms in order to reach the village. I was walking with 2 French women (the only other tourists met in 2 months), and with a Madagascan woman, an acquaintance of theirs. We met on the train. We stayed in the village for the night, and the next day, set out on foot with two guides on a 20km trek down narrow walking tracks, through the lush green mountains and modest villages, until we reached the wide river in the village Antambao. Here we hired a boat (pierogue) and sailed the next 20kms to the village Manapatrana, where I was to meet the train for the coast. The next day I was going to catch the train and leave on my own, however the train didn't arrive, it was held back due to the dramatic political situation in Fianarantsoa. The next one was due in 4 days. For me this delay turned out to be quite challenging, because I fell sick with a cold and diarrhoea (I managed to control both things with my own medicine). Luckily the next train did arrive and I reached Manakara, a small town near the ocean, populated by a completely different mix of ethnic groups. Their houses were typically wooden constructions, which was enough in the warm climate. My stay there was mainly for rest and recovery, with long walks on the beach, observing the life of the fishermen with their small fishing boats. Originally I planned to spend more time on the coast, but due to the train delay I decided to return through the mountains to the tropical village of Ranomafana, where there is access to a national park containing lemurs. The car trip turned out to be one of the worst I have ever been on in my life. I have to admit that the local drivers are masters at conquering unforeseen difficulties on the road with immense calm. In Ranomafana I found a local guide and with him explored the tropical and mountainous forest of the National Park, looking for different types of lemurs, which exist only in Madagascar. To my great happiness, we saw several lemurs from the species Sifaka (Milne-Edwards), as well as a family of red-bellied lemurs. I was very pleased to have had this experience but at the same time I regretted that Sandra from Australia could not be with me, as she is very interested in lemurs. Due to the political environment in Madagascar, she didn't make it to meet me on this trip.I spent the next day in a nearby village with the family of a young man, Angelin, from the Tanala tribe. I met many members of his family, including his 80 year old grandmother. I also tried many new traditional dishes, with a rice base and consisting of added vegetables. The dwellings in the village, low-lying and single level, were built from a wood and filled with clay. The tropical surroundings made it all look as though from a fairytale, green, with at least a dozen different kinds of fruit trees growing all around. In Ranomafana I also met a very interesting person, Florent. He works in the National Park and turned out to be, in addition, an ethnographer. A meeting of a few minutes turned into an hours-long, fascinating conversation. The return car trip to Fianarantsoa turned out to be particularly difficult, rocky, made of clay, and more than once I felt my hair standing on end! But once again the driver proved to be in control the whole way. I stayed in the city for just one day. I finally had access to the internet and could make contact with my family who had been getting worried after 2 weeks of not hearing from me. In Fianarantsoa I said goodbye to Kene i Haja, students I met at the start of my trip here. Meeting them again turned into another long conversation. What can I say, travelling like this I had an idea...to publish a dual-language book (in Madagascan and English) containing Ken and Zaza's (Zaza is Ken's brother) poetry, my photography, with an introduction by Florent, the recently met ethnographer. Everyone agreed to take on this 2-3 year project with enthusiasm. At the same time I invited Sandra from Australia to take part in developing this book, hoping that in this way, I can bring Madagascar to her, since sh From Fianarantsoa I travelled by road, this time an asphalt one, all the way to Ranohira, a village on the south coast populated by people of the Bara tribe. At first the landscape was mountainous. The highest peak in Madagascar was there – Pic Bob (2658m). The rest of the landscape was flat and reminded me of the desert in the Australian outback. In Ranohira, I set out with two guides on a two day walk through the mountainous mass of Isalo Park. The start of the journey reminded me of the cliff formations in Purnululu, in the Kimberelys in Australia. We walked for about 25kms a day. The trail led through the tops of mountains, and then through a spacious valley. It was very hot, the terrain was dry, and all around were cactus plants, including something like a mini baobab growing on the cliffs Speaking to Jose, my guide, I found out a lot about the local customs of the Bara people. One of them was their tendency to steal. When a young Bara boy wants to marry, he must steal an ox, in order to prove his courage, resourcefulness and to gain the respect of the girl's family. I suddenly understood this activity which first became apparent to me in the mountain village a few weeks ago. Despite sometimes very large distances (hundreds of kilometres), some villages and tribes remain at risk of theft, since the custom of stealing oxen continues to be practiced. My next aim during this time, was to reach the city of Toliara on the south-east coast. The first part of the trip by bus wasn't bad. After many weeks of strikes and as a result of international political negotiations, the roads had been unblocked. But after about 100 kms, the road blocks and controls appeared once more. This was an area where many of the advocates of the old system and old president were living. For the first time, even my passport was checked several times. But I was most shocked by a road block on the way to Toliara, where two large metal containers had been deliberately placed to block the road completely and permanently, such that the only way to get across was to walk. This experience was yet another example which illustrated to me the self-destructive nature of the previous government and it's protagonists. Toliara, a port city, is a decidedly wealthier city, with a dominant population of Indians, largely involved in trade. I spent the next few days walking along the coast, listening to the ocean, observing the life of the local fishermen, who head out on the ocean each morning with their hand-made fishing boats. This was the first and last city in Madagascar where I was able to send any postcards. It turned out, that in the local dialect my name Basia has a meaning....Venus, the first star in the sky. A large entertainment centre in the middle of Toliara has a sign on it "BASIA". Isn't it an unusual coincidence, and a fitting farewell for me with Madagascar? Having little time left and wanting to avoid any more problems on the roads, I managed to book a flight from Toliara to Antanariwo. And the next piece of luck was that the plane actually took off. Yes, in this country anything is possible including all sorts of last minute unexpected changes! At the airport in Antanariwo, the capital, I got a huge surprise. In the waiting are I saw...Ken and Haja, my friends from Fianarantsoa. They came especially to say goodbye to me one more time. I welcomed Ken's invitation to stay with his brother's family, very close to the airport, for my remaining few days in Madagascar. This was another encounter with a new environment, a different life – typically modest but very hospitable and joyous. I also met Mamy, Patricia's husband who I met during the first few days (from the Servas). Mamy, a big businessman, showed me, Ken and Haja his modern office filled with 21st century technology, computers, and plans to install optical cable communication. It was an unusual contrast to complete my experiences from the last 2 months. Mamy and Patricia also spoiled us with a delicious meal. For my young companions this was a day full of excitement and inspiration. It was also eye-opening for them to see such a different way of life and the possibilities that lie in their future. I spent the final hours before the flight having long conversations with Ken. 3 May, 2002 – at dawn, still in the dark, Ken and I left on foot for the airport, where we met Haja. As a farewell gesture with Madagascar, I proudly wore a t-shirt with a photograph of Marc Ravalomanana, the new president elected by the majority of the people, and not accepted by the old communist government which had been in power for over 20 years. So it was in this "unpolitical" way that I decided to show my support for the people I had met who shared their lives with me. At the airport, I was greeted by staff with wide smiles and raised hands at the sight of my t-shirt (supporting Marc R.). And to add to life's strange coincidences, I spent the flight to Johannesburg in the company of a man who works on servicing a special helicopter for Marc R.! At the airport in Johannesburg I received from him a cap with the president's picture on it. I know that after leaving this country I will have minimal access to information and the eve I hope that the idea for a book of poetry will eventuate, realising the dreams of many people, and becoming a small building block towards a happier future for the country of Madagascar, which has left a strong mark in my heart. Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 8 (6 June 2002) |
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Dear Friends, My adventure through the African continent began with a productive and recuperating stay in Cape Town. I was there for two weeks. It is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen. I encourage everyone to include this city in their future travels, as a stopover for a minimum of 6 days, on the way to Europe or other places. The location of this modern city leaves an unforgettable impression. In Cape Town I recommend: Day 1 – the Cape of Good Hope (with monkeys and penguins) Day 2 – visit the top of Table Mountain (nature in the middle of the city) Day 3 – morning trip to Robben Island, and the afternoon at the Waterfront Aquarium (fantastic displays) Day 4 – the Botanic Gardens (on the slopes of Table Mountain, beautiful displays of the protea flower) Days 5 and 6 – exploring and shopping around the city etc I was fortunate to be a guest of some members of Servas. At first I was with Enid, and for the next 10 days I stayed with Gwen and Glen, whose hospitality and warmth was inspirational. Apart from many short trips around the city, I spent most of my time productively developing and cataloguing my photos. Then there was the writing and sending of letters. I also sent a portion of photographs to Poland. Thus ready for the next part of my journey, I bought an additional series of films as well as a bus ticket out of Cape Town along the coast to Swaziland on the north. The coast line reminds me very much of Australia. Wealthy holiday homes, many similar kinds of vegetation. Currently I have decided to stop in Natural Valley, a small town by the sea. There is a beautiful beach here, mountains and nature which I am enjoying from dawn until dusk. I decided to take a few days "off"... from travelling, not to rush for the next bus, send some internet mail, and to read for the first time in months, a normal book instead of a travel guide. My upcoming plans lead me north, along the coast and through the mountains. I will visit Laseotho, Swaziland, Mozambique and further areas of Southern Africa. In a few weeks I am planning to fly from Pretoria (South Africa) to Namibia, from where I will continue to travel overland towards the north-east. Generally I feel in great form. My recent treatment of antibiotics has effectively healed my knee infection and flu (both acquired in Madagascar). I am full of happiness at my chosen, sometimes challenging "gipsy life". Thank you all very much for your letters. It is always a joy for me to receive news from you and about you. I'm not always able to reply immediately, but don't let that detract you! It is wonderful to have the kind of freedom I have now and still be able to share my experiences with friends and family. Wishing you all great big smiles for today, for tomorrow, for always... Hugs and kisses, Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 9 (23 June 2002) |
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Dear friends, On 17 May I began travelling north along South Africa’s eastern coastline. The landscape has been amazing; long beaches, mountains, sprawling farms and thousands of summerhouses dotting the coast. Everything reminded me more of Australia than the exotic Africa I had known from stories. It was only on the "Wild Coast", in Mpande, that I experienced my first contact with the local lifestyle of the Xhosa people. Living in a round, clay, grass-roofed hut, I was able to acquaint myself partly with the local lifestyle – observe the everyday life of a village with no electricity. It was a naturally beautiful area with a mountainous coast and dolphins playing in the waves at sunset. All this filled me with an inner peace. From the coast, I headed inland to the mountains – Drakensberg Mtn. I felt the change of climate right away. I treaded mountain trails in much warmer clothing. I observed rock paintings by bushmen. Finally, I travelled by four wheel drive, driven by the owner of a mountain lodge, over a steep and winding road through the Sani Pass saddle to Lasotho, a tiny, independent country lying, in its entirety, at an altitude of over 1,000 metres. The road over the saddle was covered in snow and peaks measuring over 3,000 m glistened brilliantly white. I spent almost a week staying in a lodge at the altitude of 1,450 m, in a gorgeous setting of 2,000-3,000 m mountains, with no electricity but with a hot shower (gas), gas kitchen, fireplace, and candlelight… The lodge is set in a traditional village so authentic local life is available for observation at your fingertips. This place is a true treasure of Lasotho. Both hiking and horse-riding expeditions are wonderful. It’s no surprise, then, that I confirmed my desire to return here by reserving accommodation for Christmas 2003 and New Year’s 2004. Does anybody want to join me? This is a photographer’s paradise. Maybe the Canberra Photographic Society could organise an excursion to come here? I’m waiting for your comments. From Molumong Lodge I travelled over a winding but wonderful asphalt mountain road "On the roof of Africa", mostly at altitudes of over 3,000 m. The landscape was breathtaking. That’s how I came to be on the other side of the mountains, on a plain at an altitude of 1,000 m, in Maser, the capital of Lasotho. Following a one-day break and Internet connection, I’m heading off to visit other Lasotho villages with no electricity and, finally, I’ll return to the mountains of Drakensberg in South Africa. This time I’d like to sincerely thank Basia K., Ania W. and Joasia K. for offering to translate my letters into English, offers which I have gratefully accepted. I’d also like to thank many others who have offered help which I didn’t make use of this time. With warmest regards and kisses, Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 10(14 July 2002) |
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Dear friends, This has been an amazing adventure – five weeks in the Maluti mountains of the independent nation of Lesotho and the Drakensberg mountains of South Africa. The entire trip took place at altitudes of 1,400 – 3,000 metres, staying mostly in villages without electricity, but the hostels (lodges) had hot water – gas-heated.
From Molumong I travelled along a mountain road to Maseru, the capital of Lesotho, which has many signs of modernity. The following towns I visited – Malealea and Semonkong, provided me with further experiences in the mountains; by waterfalls, in local villages. My joyful one-day horse riding trip ended with…the falling from my backpack of (!) both my Pentax cameras (one for negatives the other for slides). Luckily (!) both still worked after the fall. During those five weeks I used all of my warm clothing – jacket, hat, gloves, socks, thermal underwear, and all this in many layers, "like an onion". My metal water bottle, filled with hot water, landed in bed with me every night to warm up my freezing feet. Temperatures fell to –10 degrees Celsius at night and there was snow in the area, but the days were usually warm and sunny. I spent several hours each evening in the company of other travellers or the owners of the lodge by candlelight, warming ourselves by the fireplace, sometimes with a bit of whisky or good, red South African wine. Transport was mostly safe, except for on one dirt, mountain road from Semonkong to Roma. Terrified (very much so), I stared as the bus slid along the steep road, above ragged slopes, conquering snow, ice and mud (the worst). I had a few more grey hairs by the end, but I continued my adventure nonetheless. After spending about three weeks in Lesotho, I returned to South Africa via the northern part of the Drakensberg mountains. Here I trekked still more kilometres of mountain paths, admiring with open fascination the soaring, ragged peaks and rock formations of the Royal National Park, with its amazing Amphitheatre mountain range. I was in such a good frame of mind that one evening, especially after hearing the lodge managers’ shout of "cheers" – glug, glug, glug (in Polish), I landed dancing…on the bar! My final, beautiful, mountain treks took place in the central part of Drakensberg, in the region of Champagne Castle. I had also hoped to end my mountain adventures there in the evening, with the aid of a certain bubbly liquid (some of you know of my weakness), but this place was a little too isolated and it was impossible to do so. So, enchanted by the early-morning vistas of crimson mountains, glistening in the sunlight by day, with their peaks sometimes hidden in heavy snow clouds, I ended this fragment of my journey around Africa and reached the city of Pietermaritzburg not far from Durban in South Africa. Here I made the most of the warm welcome I received at a private house and, straight after my arrival, celebrated my recent experiences with my host, Andre, with an amazing local champagne. I stopped over in Pietermaritzburg for 12 days, six of which I was completely alone, feeling as much at home as if I were in Canberra. I developed my second set of films and slides and catalogued everything. I made some copies for people I’d met whilst travelling (mostly locals) and wrote and posted around 50 letters (via regular post). I also made some extra copies of photos for myself and put them into two albums (complete with comments). The films (negatives), slides and albums are already on their way to Poland. I also completed my notes and correspondence. Another thing I did was to get my cameras checked, cleaned and repaired. One of them (after falling off the horse) had a faulty light measurer. Finally, I bought a series of films and once again began to feel ready and excited about my upcoming adventures. To start with, I’m travelling to north-eastern South Africa, where the climate is sub-tropical and where I can warm up my pensioner’s bones. So I’m off to Durban and, from there, to interesting regions of South Africa – Zululand and Maputaland. That will mark the end of my travels in South Africa. From there I will shortly head to Swaziland, a small independent nation once again located a little higher, in the mountains. Finally, I will reach Mozambique, where I had planned to be over a month ago and where I will mostly travel along the coast – in warm weather! I plan to spend my birthday (in August) in Namibia, which sounds like an amazing place, and which I will travel to by plane. With this warm accent (despite presently shaking with the cold in a cold house, wearing a warm jacket and hat), I will end this letter. I’ll soon write longer and more detailed letters from this last part of my gipsy life (from Cape Town to Zululand – South Africa and Lesotho). If anyone wishes to send me a "normal" letter to my postal address in Australia, I will be picking up my mail in Namibia in August. I send you all my best regards, love and belated and early wishes for birthdays, name days and any other occasions, as well as lots of kisses. Basia P.S. I’m attaching a text (available in English only) that I found in the Drakensberg mountains and have adapted to my new gipsy way of life. English language translation by Anna Wielopolska Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 11 (1 August 2002) |
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One of the emails I received prompted me to write a letter that I have been meaning to write for a while now. A letter in which I would like to give a brief and general description of my means of travelling - my new way of life, which I started in March 2002. This new way is often full of uncertainties and sometimes of risk but also full of great enriching experiences with a big dose of joy. I would also like to share my reflections as to why I write these letters. Gypsy Life - are my letters to my family, friends and acquaintances, to those who are interested in my adventures or in my life. These letters aren’t articles for any publication; their format is very informal. At the same time, I have agreed to the possibility of other people using my texts. To me, these letters are a great way of keeping in contact with those close to me - but at the same time I also have a different objective. My dream is for these letters, along with my daily notes - I already have over 200 pages - as well as my photos, to become the basis for my travel tales. My dream is to live long enough to have sufficient energy, enthusiasm and writing ability so as to eventually be able to write and publish my own book in the future. I believe that my descriptions might evoke many reflections on life and that they might inspire, gladden and inform. Equally they might awake an interest in the life of other cultures on other continents. I also write for my own benefit, finding it a way to self-enrichment. It is a way of finding, or confirming, what I think, what I observe and what I experience, and of discovering what meaning this has for me. By writing, I also discover more dreams and I discover my fears and what brings me joy. It gives me the feeling of experiencing life twice - the first time by living the experience, the second time by writing about it. Why did I choose this way of life? I love adventure and travel. I love getting to know and enriching my own life and that of others. Photography is my passion. Sharing my experiences with others is a feature of my personality. Despite this, I have many times assessed my personal life as being very unsuccessful and full of difficult problems. After many years, however, I have not lost my faith and hope and I have started to believe in myself. I began to assess my life and my achievements more positively. I stopped comparing myself to others. And now I have given myself to a long process of effecting and discovering my new way of life. It is a process of re-evaluating my own values and of a continual awakening of dreams of further adventures and travels - the intensity of experiencing these constantly enriches my life. I am also fully aware that it is not only my life that is undergoing big changes. I feel and observe how my presence and personality affects others, often those who are very close to me, as well as travellers and local inhabitants whom I meet by chance. A heartfelt smile, a hand held out in greeting, an embrace, hospitality - these are some of the elements which I value highly in the peaceful understanding among people. Now I get to experience this nearly every day. People I have just met become my family; somewhere I stay a bit longer becomes my home. My way of travelling demands much compromise and tolerance. I feel very comfortable with this. My accommodation My hotels are usually backpackers’ hostels. In most of these I sleep in shared rooms - dorms - where bunk beds are the norm. This sort of accommodation allows me to travel on a low budget, as well as to meet other travellers and exchange valuable information. Sometimes I am able to stay in single rooms, which give me more privacy. I also avail myself of the welcoming private homes of the members of Servas, an international travellers’ organisation. Sometimes I refer to my hostel as my home, especially when I spend more than 3 nights there and encounter great warmth and hospitality. My feeling of great freedom is constantly amazing. Travel information Guidebooks, mainly those published by Lonely Planet, are my travel bible. To this is added priceless information from other travellers met along the way. In this way, I find addresses of accommodation, basic information, local points of interest and travel tips. My food Most backpackers’ hostels have equipped kitchens for guest use. I also eat in many restaurants, sometimes in these same hostels, which serve fantastic local dishes. I have one cooked meal a day - usually in the evening. In the mornings and at lunchtimes, I usually make my own meals. Breakfast usually consists of fruit and bakery items. Sometimes I’m able to make my favourite - porridge. For lunch I eat sandwiches or small local meals. I usually have access to free drinking water. I sometimes fill up my water bottle in the evening with boiling water and it’s ready to drink the next day. In very difficult conditions, I use water purification tablets. I don’t avoid alcoholic drinks - I enjoy tasting local beer, wine, champagne, vodka or whisky. My transport I use all possible means of transport - planes, local buses, minibuses, taxis, boats, private cars, etc. Sometimes I’m sitting in a comfortable and clean vehicle, sometimes I find myself squashed in like a sardine among the locals. This is also for me a way of meeting the locals. Since it’s not always a comfortable form of transport, I try to not to travel for more than 6-7 hours at a time. The language I communicate in The main language I communicate in is English. I try to learn at least a few words in the local language, which always makes contact with the local inhabitants more interesting. Nevertheless, there has so far always been someone who speaks English. I write all my notes in Polish. My email letters are sent out in Polish - "Cyganskie Zycie" as well as in English - "Gypsy Life". I also find body language to be a very useful communication tool. Many times, without words, I have achieved great understanding and evoked much emotion, joy, warmth and hospitality by miming what I wanted to say. With transport, to avoid misunderstandings, I often have a piece of paper with my destination written on it. My health Before I left Australia, I had numerous preventative vaccinations. All along I have been taking anti-malarial tablets once a week. In the last five months, I have only once taken break of a few weeks from the tablets - when I was in the mountains. I generally don’t have any strange symptoms, though sometimes my hormonal changes cause me a lot of difficulty and also uncertainty as to which symptoms are symptomatic of what! However, I see this as being of little importance and usually a little added rest is enough for things to return to normal. Most countries in Africa have a high risk of malaria. Apart from the tablets, I also use special creams and a mosquito net at night and I wear long pants and long-sleeved tops. Despite all this, I am often bitten - mosquitoes usually like my blood! My general life and travel experience protects me from stomach illnesses. I also carry a pretty big medical kit, equipped with indispensable first aid and medical items, including antibiotics. Travel formalities I’m travelling on my Australian passport for which I don’t require visas in most countries. Sometimes visas are issued at the border. So far I have needed a visa for Madagascar (obtained in Australia) and for Mozambique (obtained from the embassy in Swaziland). I’ll arrange other necessary visas along the way. I’m also carrying my Polish passport, which I’ll use in Europe. Money and travel budget I have a Visa card account which is credited once a fortnight with money from my pension. So I try to mainly use this card, withdrawing local money from banks. I don’t use ATMs, as I want to avoid having my card accidentally eaten. I also always have with me some cash and travellers’ cheques in American dollars. There are countries, banks and towns which do not accept Visa cards. I carry my money in a special cotton belt as well as in a neck pouch. I can hide both items under my clothes. I leave my important documents and money in hostel safes. My general average budget is 35 Australian dollars a day (around US$17), sometimes it’s a lot more or a lot less. This covers my accommodation, meals, transport and additional costs (parks, museums, etc). I have an additional budget to cover photographic expenses. I know that I could lower my daily budget further. Many young travellers have even tighter financial constraints. My correspondence The internet is my main means of communicating with my family, friends and acquaintances. It is a fantastic technological achievement. In all major African cities there are places with public internet access. However, there are often big constraints in terms of time (opening hours), finances (high usage costs) and the state of local connections (very slow computers). It happens sometimes that I receive 50 emails on a day when it takes 15 minutes to open one email! My son Christopher helps me a lot. I send him all the group email letters and he sends them out from my address to the addressees. This saves me a lot of time and money. Apart from the internet, I’m also trying to send out traditional postcards to everyone. I have also written many individual letters, mainly with photos, and I also send out many packages of films and photos. While I’m on this subject, I have to ask a BIG FAVOUR. Could you all please NOT SEND any petition-emails, jokes, documents or photos to my email address. With slow and difficult access to the internet, such emails block my access to personal emails, which are often very important and for which I have been waiting. I’m very grateful for your understanding. My photography On average I take about 15 rolls (36 shots) of normal print (negative) film and about 5 rolls of slide film a month. I mainly use 200 ASA Fuji film. Roughly once every two months I develop all of my negative and slide films. I develop them without having prints done - only an index print (small versions of all of the shots on the film on one page). Then I catalogue everything. I also pick out some of the photos and have them printed for people I’ve met along the way. I then send out everything in individual letters. I also have some prints done for myself which I put in albums, label and send off to Poland, to my mother. I have scanned some of the photos and I hope that I will be able to put them on my website one day. Christopher is working on that - maybe someone is keen to help? I also send the slides to Poland. People I meet During my journey, I meet many local inhabitants of the various countries. In my everyday travels I meet very many young travellers as well as tourists. The average age is about 25 years old, so in their company I become younger (I’m already young at heart!). For the most part, these are very interesting people from many countries around the world. Also for the most part, these are people who are travelling for a much shorter period - a few weeks, though sometimes a few months. Summary Well then, I think this letter will answer, at least in part, many of the questions I’ve been asked. I think that it will also allow a better understanding of my new way of life - a journey that spans a number of years. I also wanted to add that this year’s trip through Africa is quite intensive. I don’t spend very much time in one place, wanting to experience as many countries and cultures of Africa as I can. From next year (March 2003), my travelling style will change. I’ll be staying in many places and countries for much longer, often for a few months or more. I hope that then I will be able to spend more time on writing my tales and my book. But more about that later. So to end this long letter, I wanted to share how very happy I am with my free and chosen new way of life. I feel its intensity, the full and constant freedom to choose and change my plans. I never feel lonely, though I often miss my family and friends. I also have my difficult moments - but everyone has them wherever they are. My thoughts are often with those close to me and it pleases me immensely to receive letters, either via email or ordinary mail to the address in Australia. Sometimes I think that some of my friends have forgotten about me as I haven’t heard from them at all. Or maybe they no longer want to keep in touch with me and share their lives with me? To all those who have written - thank you - you are always in my thoughts and in my heart. With best wishes, hugs and kisses, Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 12 (1 August 2002) |
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After a champagne farewell to the warm welcome I’d received from André in Pietermaritzburg, South Africa, I left to continue my trip on 4 July. My first stopover was in Durban where I got to know this particularly interesting city, the centre of many political happenings of African countries. From there, I reached the small city of Gingindlovu in Zululand. I stayed at a charming hostel, which lies among large fields of high sugar cane. Here I enjoyed a mud bath (!) and got to design and paint my own T-shirt. I also become acquainted with local culture, taking part in a several-hour-long Zulu mass. This mass was full of loud, rhythmic music, singing and … dancing! After a few days, I headed north to another country, which was completely new to me – the independent kingdom of Swaziland. There I stayed at Myxo Place, a hostel run by locals, and this was my home for a week. I got to know several cities and towns, different customs and traditions. I visited another country school, drank local beer and danced joyfully among country huts with colourfully dressed women. A major event for me was participating in a huge celebration in the royal village. This was a dance-march of a couple of thousand women-mothers clad in traditional costumes, carrying bunches of several-metre-long sugar cane – a gift for the king’s mother. The valley was filled with particularly energetic music and dancing. The earth resounded with the stomping of the bare feet of the army of women, and the thuds of the sugar cane bunches, with wavering flowery tips wavering. I quickly changed roll after roll of film. It was a fascinating experience and a feeling of privilege to be there for this occasion. The entire royal family was there – the king (aged 34), his nine wives, 15 children, the king’s mother (who holds a special meaning) and many other royal family members. In addition, there were numerous special guests; representatives of other countries, including the president of Libya – Gaddafi. And me, just a few metres away… From Swaziland I headed straight for Maputo, the capital city of Mozambique. I was hit right away by the greyness of a Communist city, well known to me from the past, so I quickly headed north! I had great pleasure in stopping right next to the Tropic of Capricorn, by long, sandy beaches, among coconut palms in Tofo, at the Bamboozi hostel. A relaxed atmosphere and fantastic local seafood with coconut seasoning provided me with a wonderful rest, a break in my trip, and the chance to write letters. From Tofo I plan to head a little further north to Vilankulo, where I want to reach the Bazaruto Archipelago islands. I’m dreaming of swimming and observing the underwater world of those azure waters. There is also the interesting lifestyle of the local fishermen to observe. At the end of July I’ll return to Maputo and head back to South Africa, to Johannesburg. From there, on 5 August, I’ll fly to Namibia for the entire month. In August I might be limited in sending group mails, so please don’t worry if I don’t write until September. With my warmest regards, I send you all hugs and kisses, Basia English language translation by Anna Wielopolska Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 13 (17 September 2002) |
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Dear friends, This letter is very important for our future email contact. I have decided to check my email address list and make any necessary adjustments and changes to it, so I ask that you read this letter carefully to the end. I am currently in Namibia, in South-West Africa. The last six weeks of this trip have been very intensive and interesting. During this time several big problems also occurred, which have influenced my travel plans. As a result, I am forced to stay longer in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. Whilst waiting for a solution to these problems and with daily access to a quick Internet connection, I decided to tidy up my address list in the Internet. Over the next couple of months my access to the Internet in East and North Africa will once again be limited and more difficult. You will read more details about this in Gipsy Life 14. My email address list is saved in my Hotmail account. Thanks to this, I can access it worldwide. Keeping up ongoing contact with friends and family is very important to me. The ability to share my travel experiences with those close to me is a very important and emotional issue for me. This takes a lot of time and effort and I know that most people understand and appreciate this. In order to keep in contact, I must be aware of a mutual understanding. It’s a great pleasure for me to receive even short emails, sometimes talking of problems, but telling me about the lives of others. I often think and have in my heart those who are far away from me, or those who have similar interests to mine. There are certain technical problems, however, with keeping in touch. My Gipsy Life letters are sent out in two language versions – Polish and English. At the moment I have three main email lists and several sublists (limited by the number of names in a given group). My list contains several hundred addresses. The first list contains all names (in alphabetical order) and addresses, but is not divided into language subgroups. The following groups are created depending on the language my letters are sent in (unfortunately not in alphabetical order). Any changes to addresses have to be done by hand and to each email group separately. This is very time consuming and it has quickly become impossible for me to do whilst travelling (difficulties and costs associated with Internet access in African countries). Because of this I have asked my son, Chris, who has been updating address changes since the beginning, for help. However, this has become very time consuming and costly for him too and is causing delays in Because of this I have been forced to do an immediate check of all my email lists myself and to enter changes and improvements by hand. Below I have listed a few points and ask that you read them carefully and reply to my questions. 1. Those people who I haven’t heard from at all over the past six months and who I don’t hear from by 15 October 2002 will only receive one more letter – Gipsy Life 14 – and that will be the last. These peoples’ addresses will be crossed off my list as invalid. Does this concern you? 2. Email addresses of returned emails will be crossed off my list as invalid. Is your address valid? 3. Anyone who has sent me at least one email will stay on my list, unless you let me know otherwise by email. 4. Also please tell me which language version you prefer (Polish, English or both), if you are not receiving the right version. Are you happy with the language group you’re in? I will be very grateful if I receive most replies in the coming week, as I will have easier access to the Internet. My trip will soon take me into much more difficult terrain and Internet access will once again be very limited. My warmest regards to you all and best wishes for a life lived in peace and happiness. Best Wishes to All, Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 14 (26 September 2002) |
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Dear Friends, After my last letter "Gypsy Life 13" I’d like to start by thanking you for the many kind letters which I received. They were a great joy for me, though some of them expressed concern. So then I’d like to emphasise that, after 6 months of travelling through Africa, I am alive and in one piece, though after my latest problems I’ve gone a bit more grey and I seem to be somewhat hunched over. But my soul continues to want to be young, and for the most part it succeeds. And so I keep on travelling. My latest problems related to formal and financial issues. I was forced to have a new Visa card issued, which had been my main source of funds. Unfortunately the new card disappeared in the mail somewhere between Australia and Namibia. Frustration, fear, dejection, tears, tiredness, loneliness - these are just some of the emotions I have experienced in the last few weeks. In addition, my second credit card - my MasterCard - also stopped working, leaving me on my last reserve of funds. Fortunately the problem with the MasterCard was resolved quickly. The new Visa card still hasn’t arrived, so I have decided to have it cancelled, blocked, again have a new one issued and sent to Zimbabwe by diplomatic mail. This way I’ll finally be able to head off again. So now I can write comprehensively about what has been happening during my travels since the last latter (number 12) which was sent at the end of July from Mozambique. And a lot has been happening. I warn you that this letter is long. The second part of my stay in Mozambique in July gave me the chance to rest in the warmth of a tropical coast after my long travels. It also gave me the chance to acquaint myself with the local customs. From the smallish town of Tofo I travelled further north along the coast, above the Tropic of Capricorn, to the town of Vilanculos. A sandy, palm-fringed shore lined a huge and shallow lagoon, which, during low-tide, became a very wide beach. This lagoon was separated from the open sea by five islands surrounded by coral reefs, which formed part of the Bazaruto Archipelago. The life of the coastal people was mainly concerned with the gathering of the bounty of the sea - fish, crabs, shellfish, calamari and other creatures. The crystal clear water was dotted with hundreds of "dhow" - simple sailing boats - which were the means of transport between the mainland and the islands. Sometimes pods of dolphins would appear around them. I was staying by myself in a small round hut, made of sticks and straw, right by the beach. The sound of waves soothed me. Each morning I greeted the sun rising large over the horizon - I could even see it from my bed. In the evenings, in the same place, I enjoyed watching the full moon rising. Sometimes I was there alone, sometimes with other travellers. I was very happy. Most of the round huts in the town of Vilanculos were built from straw like mine, except they were bigger. Milling among the huts were children and mothers with infants on their backs ensconced in various sizes of coloured cloth shawls. During the days, I would go for long walks alo I also went for a trip on a dhow boat to one of the islands in the Bazaruto Archipelago. I snorkelled in the crystal clear water looking at the colourful underwater world and strolled along the white sand of the empty beaches. These were beautiful natural places and it’s no wonder that the islands of this archipelago are often visited by dignitaries and VIPs from around the world. It was there that I again ran into, quite by accident, the young king of Swaziland. And apparently it was also on these islands that Nelson Mandela celebrated his recent wedding. I left Vilanculos and returned south to Maputo, the capital of Mozambique. From there I travelled by bus for a whole day to arrive in Johannesburg, in South Africa. There I began a new and different stage of my journey, in some very special company. On Saturday 3 August my son Christopher arrived from Australia to join me for 4 weeks. This was a previously unplanned visit - on an impulse, I invited him to come to Africa as I wanted to show him a different world and life to the one in which he found himself. I wanted to lift his spirits after many difficult, painful and humiliating problems, particularly in the last few months, linked to the break-up of his family. And so Chris first got to see Johannesburg - a city full of the thousands of contrasts of the African continent and which I had already visited. Next we flew to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, which is located on the west coast of Africa. Namibia is a large country in terms of area, but its population is only 1.8 million. It’s a country which generally consists of deserts, savannahs and mountains, and where the climate is hot and dry though in winter (now) the temperatures at night fall to 0° C or below. Driving along the many unsealed roads the countryside reminded me of the Australian outback. From the start, Chris was full of joy and enthusiasm about his great new life adventure. I was as well. The beginning of our trip was enriched by the added meeting, which I had been awaiting, with Adam, an old Polish friend from Australia. He was a participant on a big 3-year round-world journey by a group of climbers callers called "Hot Rock". The group, whose membership changed often, began their journey in London in November 2001. Then they travelled from the north of Africa to the south. Their means of transport was large red vehicle built on a truck base with a climbing wall attached to the back. Adam had been with them for over a year. I was full of admiration for Fi, a young and petite English geographer, who was often the driver of this red giant. It wasn’t surprising that when the local police in Namibia stopped the vehicle they would ask, seeing Fi behind the wheel, "…so where is the driver…?". Chris and I spent five days with Adam and "Hot Rock", generally in tents. We spent this time on long conversations in Polish, group hikes, and watching and photographing the climbers sprightly manoeuvring themselves up the steep rocky cliffs. Despite the many invitations, I didn’t take part in the climbing. Chris on the other hand experienced his first-ever outdoor climbs. He soon felt at ease in this new sport and undertook increasingly difficult climbs. Our next adventure was a tent safari with Charles, a local guide, and with Marco and Taigo, fellow travellers. We travelled to the south of Namibia, to Sossusvlei in the vast Namib Desert. This was a fantastic trip, full of new experiences - seeing the often dramatic countryside and the abundant African wildlife. It was a photographer’s paradise. With great passion both Chris and I photographed hundreds of unusually-shaped red sand dunes. We also climbed up their steep slopes, including the highest one, "Big Daddy", at 350 metres. We slid down from the top to the bottom of this sand dune whooping with joy like children. Straight after our return to Windhoek, we left on another tent safari, this time to the north of Namibia, led by the young and nice Susi. Travelling in a four-wheel drive vehicle, our group was made up of 9 people hailing from 5 different countries. Our first destination was the sunny coast at Swakopmund, thereafter travelling north to Cape Cross, the start of the "Skeleton Coast". Here we encountered a huge colony of hundreds of seals and sea lions, splashing about in the water and sunning themselves on the rocks. From there we went inland to the peaks of Spitzkoppe (1728m) and Pondoks (1629m). In this region, like later in Twyfelfontein, we wandered around the rocky terrain looking at the interesting and often very old rock drawings made by the Bushmen of the San tribe. This area, like most of Namibia, was also geologically very interesting. All of the time we were walking on multicoloured rocks which glistened in the sun. Many of these were semi-precious stones which inspired much interest among collec The next part of the trip was a visit to the vast rocky and desert-like plains, where we went to see the "Petrified Forest" where tree trunks had turned into stone. There were tree trunks as long as 34 metres and as wide as 6 metres in diameter, which are estimated to be 260 million years old! Another unique thing about this area was the unusual plant "Welwitschias", apparently one of the three most unique plants in the world. It looks pretty plain, like a huge cabbage spread out on the ground, but in fact it’s a tree, with its trunk in the ground and believed to be about 1000 years old! The following stage of the journey, full of great emotions, was a visit of the Etosha National Park. The Park, where we spent a few days, is one of the best places in Africa to see a variety of wildlife. Our tents were only 10-20 metres away from… paths, which was used by hundreds of different antelopes, gazelles (oryx), zebras, giraffes, elephants, gnu (wildebeest) and other animals to get to the nearby waterhole. There was also a rhinoceros. Despite being told not to, I squealed with delight and excitement. What Chris and I and the others saw was like a fairytale and already the next day it was hard to believe that it had all been real and not a film. Could I have picked a better place and adventure to celebrate my 56th birthday in the company of my son and other travellers? In the evening, by the campfire, Susi the guide even surprised me with … champagne! On the last part of the safari, we hiked near the unusual 150 metre deep Lake Guinas and climbed to the summit of the Waterberg Plateau. From there we returned to Windhoek, farewelled the rest of the group who had become our friends and set off by ourselves (Chris and I) in a car I hired to see a few more of Namibia’s interesting places. We spent the first few days in a town called Okahandja at the annual Herero Day Festival. The Herero are one of the larger ethnic groups in Namibia. We observed the multicoloured outfits of the women who were dressed in long booffy skirts worn over 7-8 layers of petticoats. On their heads the women wore large horn-like turbans. Nearby were hundreds of horse riders. We were able to take many interesting photographs. After two days full of festival experiences, we stopped in a town near the hot springs of Gross Barmen. After many hours of bathing in the hot (38° C) water, we gained new strength and travelled on, this time to the east, to the edge of the Kalahari plain. This was the location of the Harnas Wildlife Farm, which looks after the rehabilitation of wild animals, mainly huge lions, leopards and cheetahs (whose numbers are dwindling worldwide). There were also many other rarely-encountered animals such as African cats, dogs and foxes, jackals, servals and others. During my nocturnal observations, I was charmed by huge shy African hedgehog with long black and white spines which were puffed up like a peacock’s feathers. At night as we were lying in our tent, we could hear the loud roars of the lions. The sky shimmered with a million stars. Chris and I felt as though we had entered the land of dreams… This last stop, the farm, also became the inspiration for my future. I decided that one day I would buy a small farm in Australia, settle there and build a village of 10-20 houses, replicas of traditional houses from around the world. These would be a miniature-scale representation of the disappearing traditions, arts and cultures of various countries, a subject which I have been passionate about all my life. "Earthly Colours", the proposed name of my village, would be a project taking shape gradually over many years, perhaps the next 20 years or longer. I would put in place the foundations and then I would expand it with the help of others. It would also be a place for my friends and other travellers to meet, with hostel accommodation. The first houses I dream of building are those that would remind me of Poland - a hut from the Tatra Mountains region of Poland and also one from the Kurpia region. Next there would be an African hut - round, made of clay and with a straw roof. After that, a Thai house - f And so then our joint adventure in Namibia came to an end. I think that Chris’s life took on a new tone, perspective and meaning - both before and after Africa. I believe that one day he will appreciate what I, out of love, have enabled him to experience. We spent Chris’s last few days in Africa on buying souvenirs, including two 2-metre high wooden giraffes, a present for Julian and Riker, my grandchildren. Chris has already happily returned to Australia and I - less happily - have been stuck in Windhoek. I have been trying to arrange a new Visa card since the 5th of August and this has become a big problem and an obstacle to my further journey. I’ve become greyer and sadder. My friend Magda also expended a lot of her nerves on this as she was handling the arrangements from Australia - for which she has my eternal gratitude. Oh well, in the end I have decided not to wait any longer for the replacement card, and to cancel it and have a new one issued. I’m hoping that with the help of the Australian diplomatic mail my new card will arrive much more quickly and safely. I have sent off to Poland the next (big) lot of albums, photos and slides, which I had developed in Namibia. This has also caused me more stress and some more grey hairs. Now I’m just hoping that these parcels arrive successfully at their intended destinations. From the 14th of September I will be travelling in Zimbabwe, a country which is experiencing many dramas and political crises. Nevertheless I am calm. My first stop will be the famous Victoria Falls. Next I will travel to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe, and after that I plan to travel through successive African countries: Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda. With that I will finish this long letter and thank you for you patience in reading it and reaching its end. I am sending you all my best wishes, and hugs and kisses. I am often with you in my thoughts, thinking about how your lives are going. My life is different but I am often with you and I miss you all. Peace and friendship, Basia Top
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| Gipsy Lifetime 15 (11 October 2002) |
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Dear Friends
A great big THANK YOU to you all for your letters and for sharing your news with me, even sad news. It’s been a pleasure. I’m unable to answer all letters I am currently experiencing big problems with the Internet – very slow connections or lack of Internet access full stop. So my letters are becoming rarer but longer. I apologise for this. At the moment I’m in Lusaka, Zambia. The terrible problem with my visa card was finally resolved on 26 September in Harare. Almost two months after losing my card in Johannesburg (my fault), thanks to the help of the Australian diplomatic mission in Harare, Zimbabwe, I was able to collect my new card. I’m keeping a close eye on it! On 2 September I decided not to wait any longer in Namibia for my card and cancelled it. Then, an hour before my bus was due to leave, I received a phone call from the bank – the card had arrived. Unfortunately it was no longer valid. The application process for a new card (quite costly) had already begun. So it was with relief, but a bit depressed, that I left on my 20-hour bus journey through the Caprivi Strip and Botswana, to Zimbabwe.
The Victoria Falls waterfall is a fascinating and unique place. It’s a place where the borders of four countries meet – Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. The calmly flowing Zambezi River falls with thunderous force around 100 metres into a narrow ravine, which is the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Walking along the almost two km edge of the ravine, I stared for hours at the tonnes of water. An average of 550 tonnes falls here per minute! During the rainy season this amount doubles! A cloud of water forms above the ravine and waterfall, like a delicate mist. From a distance it looks like smoke from a large fire, which is why the local name for the waterfall is "the Smoke that Thunders." In this cloud of water, by the shining sun, an exquisite, long-lasting rainbow is formed. The time I spent here was fantastic, beautiful and gave me new energy for the trip ahead. It was a time also enriched by a lovely and surprising meeting with Andrzej Z., a Pole travelling from Warsaw. Together with Andrzej, I went on an amazing trip to Botswana, to the nearby Chobe National Park. First we cruised the Chobe River in peace and silence, picking out hippos, crocodiles, buffalo, water lizards, antelopes etc. To our great pleasure, we came across many. We also saw eagles and vultures. Later on, we had a very emotional meeting with … a hundred or more elephants! We were only about two metres away! My skin crawled ... from fear… From Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe I was on my own again and travelled to the city of Bulawayo, from where I set out on two side-trips. The first was another meeting with nature at Matopo National Park. Here I found characteristic rock formations such as large rock spheres lying on each other, looking a bit like bald human heads. Also in this park I managed to walk up to … a rhinoceros with a two-month-old baby! These meetings I had with African nature made me feel as if I were dreaming or in a fairy tale land… The second side-trip was completely different. Close to Bulawayo are the ruins of Khami, which form part of the history of this region. This marked the beginning of coming to know the rich and underestimated history of the inhabitants of this part of Africa. From Khami I reached the ruins of Great Zimbabwe, near Masvingo, almost 300 km away. Monkeys were running over all the ruins and around them was emptiness. The history of the ruins of this ancient kingdom dates back to the 11th Century. It is estimated that at the town’s prime, around 10 – 12 thousand inhabitants lived around the hill containing the king’s residence, the residence of his eldest wife and the village containing the houses of many of his younger wives and the villagers. For several days I lived in the park containing the ruins. Walking from dawn till dusk, mostly alone, I pondered the past of this place, learnt about Africa and played with my imagination. At dawn I sat on the ground by a five metre stone wall made of granite blocks without any mortar, 11 metres high. Passing by the ruins of lower walls I imagined the clay huts that once stood behind them, and the lives of those inhabiting these huts. As I walked along the paths I stepped on pieces of broken clay, glass, bones – often centuries-old fragments of pots, crockery and other evidence of the life and splendour of Great Zimbabwe. Currently this place is the country’s national monument. At sunrise and sunset I strolled, gazing with wonder at hundreds of two/three-metre-tall Aloe Vera plants, growing like palms, their figures glowing like ghosts against the reddish-orange backdrop of the sky. Fascinated and enriched with knowledge I spoke a lot with local people, who were very warm and helpful. I also met a fortune-teller, an elderly, skinny woman with a feather headdress. Sitting on a mat, in a trance, in a semi-dark hut, to the sounds of the mbir – a local instrument – she spoke to me of ... my future. She said that my whole African journey would pass happily and safely … and so I set off again, except that my supply of films had fallen to almost nothing. My last stopover in Zimbabwe was Harare, the nation’s capital. The city was dominated by thousands of blossoming jacaranda trees painting it blue. It was a beautiful sight, suppressing the greyness of the buildings and city streets. For me Harare was a place of relief when I recovered my new visa card. In Harare, as in Bulawayo, I was surprised at the hundreds of people, especially young, well and often fashionably dressed, self-assured and professional looking. Beautiful girls had hundreds of different types of hairstyles – plaits, straight, buns, sometimes with the use of hairpieces, sometimes dyed red or blonde … Looking at these people I filled with the belief that they would find the way to a better future for their country, despite the enormous crisis at the present, especially felt by village dwellers. In Harare I had many very friendly meetings with other travellers. Especially joyful was my meeting with Peggy and Jens, young Germans, whom I’d previously met in Mozambique and Namibia. Iddo and Ginat from Israel inspired me to travel to Ethiopia. I was grateful to them for their present – a guidebook to Ethiopia – yet another bible! Marc, a Belgian, helped me post a wooden, sculptured, traditional chair to Australia. That will be my first piece of furniture for my future return. So that’s how my trip around Zimbabwe ended. I boarded the bus that took me to Lusaka, the capital of Zambia. Crossing the border in a heat-wave, passing through the controls and having my baggage looked through, I remembered the old times of travelling through communist countries, so often degrading for tourists. On the bus I met a young woman, a mother from Zambia, whom I talked to for hours. She started off the next part of my trip full of meetings with local people from the authentic Africa. I plan to leave Zambia around 10 October and travel to Malawa, from the north of which I’ll reach Tanzania. I am generally in great form; healthy, smiling and with ever-growing eyes taking in what I am able to observe. I have been able, after many problems, to buy new films, so I’m continuing to record plenty. I have also used up another pen. I am slowly emerging from the dry, winter season. I have already entered the spring season (jacaranda) but it is still dry and has become hot. Closer to the equator there will be more humidity and greenness, which I already miss very much. The food I eat is varied, often local, nshima – a type of thick corn groat, the basic food in this part of Africa. My current fruit is generally bananas, sometimes oranges. It’s hard not to think of beer. In Zimbabwe they had "Zambezi", in Zambia they have "Mosi." In hostels it’s harder to get fresh water than … beer! Finally I’d like to add that in my letters I mostly use the names of animals and places in English. I am unable to change this. I think that most people will understand me and if not then they’ll find the answer in a dictionary or atlas. Thinking of you, wishing you peace and health, I send you warm greetings and kisses. Basia Top
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| Basia Meder - To live lifetime each day Post address: PO Box 567, Dickson, Canberra, ACT 2602, Australia Email address: basia@meder.net Web Site: www.basia.meder.net |
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Christopher Meder - EON Consultancy / Business Manager |